![]() You want the enclosure to be humid, not WET. This is also where having proper, reliable ambient temperatures (back to that thermometer!) is important, as warm air holds more moisture than cool air. ![]() Keep in mind that if you have a screen top on the enclosure you will probably want to cover it most or all of the way with plastic, a towel or some other means of keeping moisture from escaping. This consists of packing a plastic container with damp sphagnum moss (think well-wrung-out wash cloth to gauge moisture), cutting a hole in the top or side & placing it in your python's enclosure so that it can access the box as it pleases. Cypress is good for this as it turns a tan color when dry & a rich brown when wet, giving a visual cue as to when it needs to be dampened again.Ģ. Use cypress mulch or a similar substrate that can be misted & is mold-resistant. ![]() To provide your snake with a humidity level of 50% - 60%, you have a couple of options.ġ. First off, let's establish "humidity" as the amount of moisture in the air. Providing proper humidity for boas is important to help ensure complete sheds and your boa's overall comfort, but as stated previously too much humidity can be as problematic as too little. Improper temperatures can lead to regurgitation, respiratory infections, stress on your boa's immune system & consequently, death. It is important to note that common boas, while very hardy snakes, are sometimes less tolerant of sub optimal temperatures, especially when subjected to them for extended periods of time. Do not use hot rocks with snakes as they often heat unevenly over too small of a surface area & can cause serious burns. Use thermostats, rheostats and/or timers to control your heat source. With heat emitters & bulbs it is necessary to really keep an eye on the humidity within the enclosure, especially if combined with a screen top, as both will dry the air quickly. There are several ways to go about heating the enclosure: undercage heating pads, ceramic heat emitters, basking bulbs (both regular daytime & red "night" bulbs) are just a few. Stick the thermometer to the inside of the cage on the cool end and place the probe on the warm end, and you'll have both sides covered at once. DO NOT GUESS!! A great way to monitor temps is to use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer with a probe. It is vitally important to KNOW the temperatures at which you are keeping your snake(s). The ambient temperature should not fall below 75 ☏. Provide your boa constrictor with a basking spot of 88-90☏ and an ambient (background) temperature of 78-80 ☏. Remember that ALL enclosures must allow for a proper thermal gradient that the snake can utilize, with a hot spot on one end and a cooler spot on the other. For large boas, a minimum cage length of 6' is necessary. Juvenile boas seem to do well in smaller enclosures that make them feel more secure a small snake in a big cage can become overwhelmed & stressed. Also refer to our Snake Caging care sheet for more information. Glass aquariums & tanks are adequate keep in mind that the screen tops on such enclosures can make it difficult to maintain humidity levels. those from Vision Herp & other similar manufacturers). Rubbermaid), melamine racks, Freedom Breeder cages, and any of the commercially available plastic-type reptile cages, (i.e. That said, there are many different enclosures that work well for boa constrictors, including, but not limited to: plastic sweater boxes (i.e. Remember that the more "stuff" you put in a cage, the more "stuff" you have to clean & disinfect on a regular basis. Enclosures can be as simple or elaborate as one is capable of caring for.
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